Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2009 20:05:36 GMT -6
This is not a review of a product so much as it is a review of a web page that got me inspired to make my own line loops.
Dan Blanton's excellent site has a "how-to" page on making line loops from braided monofilament, which is exactly the stuff that is used for the commercial Cortland and Rio Loops we buy in four-packs for a ridiculous sum of money. www.danblanton.com/gettinglooped.html.
Being both cheap and inquisitive (emphasis on the former), I decided to give it a try, especially since I don't like the commercial loops: I don't like the small loop diameters (especially the Cortland loops) and I have had them fail.
So, armed with Blanton's info, I scouted for braided mono, which is sold as "running line". (The shooting head crowd uses this stuff behind - guess what? - their shooting heads.) Wholesale Sports sells the #30 version for $12.00; it's in the catalogue with the fly lines and the Wpg. store brought it in for me. It's O.K for making loops for lines up to 7 wt but, for anything larger, you also need to get their #50 lb. I found a Canadian source for this on the west coast: Michael and Young www.myflyshop.com/. They had to bring it in but they were helpful. The stuff you want is the Cortland braided mono - clear running line. It was about $14.00, not including shipping. These are all sold in 100 ft lengths and you use about 10" - 12" per loop.
You also need a splicing needle, which you can make by following Blanton's instructions. I used some bare 27# seven-strand wire that I have around for pike leaders (if you have lighter wire, it would be better.). Until I broke it, my bobbin threader actually worked just fine.
Once I had the stuff, it took me all of two minutes to make my first loop. A couple of Blanton's recommendations really make sense, especially using the "double-catch" approach for securing the splice as well as securing the the end of the loop on your line with a nail knot.
Also, his instruction to work the leading end of your fly line into the buried tag of the loop at least 1/8 inch is really important, especially if you are working with lead-core tips - the sharp points can break through the braided mono, weakening the whole thing. I also use a little bit of aqua seal at this point, as an extra preventative against a breakthrough.
He doesn't recommend the use of any glues on the splice but I apply a bit of fishing glue (which is supposed to be waterproof) on the "double-catch" point of the splice. Also, I coat the nail knot with a little bit of aqua seal, to ensure against unravelling and to smooth it out. He does not use heat-shrink tubing and nor do I. One thing to avoid if you apply any glue to the splice is getting any on the loop itself, as it will make it brittle and difficult to work with.
I spent $35.00 and can produce a life-time supply of loops. Now, $35.00 can buy quite a few pre-made loops but I really like the option of selecting my my loop diameters and I'm making a range of sink tips from old sinking lines, Cortland's LC 13 lead core sink tip material and even lead-core trolling line (with the braided covering).
So, there is my review of Dan Blanton's loop-making web page. Without any other help, I was making the kind of loops I wanted in short order ("Look Ma, no hands!"). Is it worth your while? About all I can say is that I'm happy with the results....TIM
Dan Blanton's excellent site has a "how-to" page on making line loops from braided monofilament, which is exactly the stuff that is used for the commercial Cortland and Rio Loops we buy in four-packs for a ridiculous sum of money. www.danblanton.com/gettinglooped.html.
Being both cheap and inquisitive (emphasis on the former), I decided to give it a try, especially since I don't like the commercial loops: I don't like the small loop diameters (especially the Cortland loops) and I have had them fail.
So, armed with Blanton's info, I scouted for braided mono, which is sold as "running line". (The shooting head crowd uses this stuff behind - guess what? - their shooting heads.) Wholesale Sports sells the #30 version for $12.00; it's in the catalogue with the fly lines and the Wpg. store brought it in for me. It's O.K for making loops for lines up to 7 wt but, for anything larger, you also need to get their #50 lb. I found a Canadian source for this on the west coast: Michael and Young www.myflyshop.com/. They had to bring it in but they were helpful. The stuff you want is the Cortland braided mono - clear running line. It was about $14.00, not including shipping. These are all sold in 100 ft lengths and you use about 10" - 12" per loop.
You also need a splicing needle, which you can make by following Blanton's instructions. I used some bare 27# seven-strand wire that I have around for pike leaders (if you have lighter wire, it would be better.). Until I broke it, my bobbin threader actually worked just fine.
Once I had the stuff, it took me all of two minutes to make my first loop. A couple of Blanton's recommendations really make sense, especially using the "double-catch" approach for securing the splice as well as securing the the end of the loop on your line with a nail knot.
Also, his instruction to work the leading end of your fly line into the buried tag of the loop at least 1/8 inch is really important, especially if you are working with lead-core tips - the sharp points can break through the braided mono, weakening the whole thing. I also use a little bit of aqua seal at this point, as an extra preventative against a breakthrough.
He doesn't recommend the use of any glues on the splice but I apply a bit of fishing glue (which is supposed to be waterproof) on the "double-catch" point of the splice. Also, I coat the nail knot with a little bit of aqua seal, to ensure against unravelling and to smooth it out. He does not use heat-shrink tubing and nor do I. One thing to avoid if you apply any glue to the splice is getting any on the loop itself, as it will make it brittle and difficult to work with.
I spent $35.00 and can produce a life-time supply of loops. Now, $35.00 can buy quite a few pre-made loops but I really like the option of selecting my my loop diameters and I'm making a range of sink tips from old sinking lines, Cortland's LC 13 lead core sink tip material and even lead-core trolling line (with the braided covering).
So, there is my review of Dan Blanton's loop-making web page. Without any other help, I was making the kind of loops I wanted in short order ("Look Ma, no hands!"). Is it worth your while? About all I can say is that I'm happy with the results....TIM