Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2013 21:21:06 GMT -6
This is an extremely productive caddis larva attractor pattern, tied using a blend of synthetics that when wet give it an absolutely irresistible fishiness in the water. I've been having a serious love affair the past few years with Senyo's Laser dub as it's semi translucent iridescence and overall versatility for everything from small nymphs to big model airplane sized steelhead and pike flies cannot be beat! The collar on this pattern, consisting of CDC and SLF squirrel dubbing gives the fly some added movement making it an incredibly active pattern in the water.
Andy's Edible Arrangement
Hook: Hanak H450 (or 400) Size 10-12 (Curved scud hook will work just fine as well)
Bead: 4mm Tungsten
Thread: UTC 140 Fl. White (I do tie these with Fl. Orange as well for hot spot collars..)
Body: Medium Amber V-Rib
Underbody: Medium Mirage opal tinsel/flashabou
Rib: White Senyo's Laser Dub, trimmed in dubbing loop
Thorax: Black CDC and SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbing
Place a size 10 Hanak Competition H450BL jig hook with 4mm slotted tungsten bead in your vice, starting the tying thread just behind the bead.
Make evenly spaced wraps towards the bend, and create a dubbing loop. Tie the loop down, allowing it to hang off the back and return your tying thread to the front of the fly. (line your last thread wrap covering the loop up with the eye of the hook).
Tie in a length of Medium AMBER Vinyl Ribbing, flat side down (be sure to leave about 1/4 inch behind the bead for the thorax.
Next, tie in some Mirrage tinsel. I do this by tying it in by the tip at the front, doing open wraps to the rear of the fly with the tinsel, then once again back to the front in even wraps to create a nice uniform underbody.
Wrap your V-rib body now forward, tying it off at the original tie in point (ensure the flat side stays down!)
Next, select a clump of white Senyo's Laser Dub and straighten out all the fibers and even them out in your fingers.
Cut your clump of nicely evenly spaced dubbing into 1/3 to 1/2 inch lengths and place them in the dubbing loop. Space them evenly (and sparsely), then using your dubbing hook/twister, create a dubbing rope.
Now, wrap the dubbing rope forward allowing it to sink into each of the segments of the vinyl ribbing and give it a brush out with your dubbing teaser to loosen any stray fibers.
Next (we're almost there..), select a nice long CDC feather. I really like the Petit Jean select CDC feathers for this... Cut about a 1 inch length of stem (from the middle of the feather) with long, even fibers and place itto the side.
Split your tying thread using a dress pin or dubbing hook.
Place the 1 inch length of CDC feather in the split thread, as well as some SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbing (Sparsely, and allowing the fibers to be distributed evenly beneath it.).
Trim the stem of the CDC feather leaving only the fibers (and dubbing beneath) in the split thread loop. Now pinch your thread beneath the dubbing in your left hand and give your bobbin a quick spin. Holding the thread horizontally/perpendicular to the hook bend will allow the bobbin to spin much nicer and the thread to twist much better. Pinch the tying thread just above the tip of your bobbin and slide your fingers up. This will push all the twists forward, locking everything in place nicely.
Now, stroke the CDC fibers back on the tying thread so they are all on the rear side of the tying thread (i.e. facing towards the bend of the hook) and begin wrapping your thorax up to the bead.
Tie off using a quick 3-4 turn whip finish, and give the thorax (and abdomen) a quick tease using a bodkin or soft dubbing teaser.
Andy's Edible Arrangement
Hook: Hanak H450 (or 400) Size 10-12 (Curved scud hook will work just fine as well)
Bead: 4mm Tungsten
Thread: UTC 140 Fl. White (I do tie these with Fl. Orange as well for hot spot collars..)
Body: Medium Amber V-Rib
Underbody: Medium Mirage opal tinsel/flashabou
Rib: White Senyo's Laser Dub, trimmed in dubbing loop
Thorax: Black CDC and SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbing
Place a size 10 Hanak Competition H450BL jig hook with 4mm slotted tungsten bead in your vice, starting the tying thread just behind the bead.
Make evenly spaced wraps towards the bend, and create a dubbing loop. Tie the loop down, allowing it to hang off the back and return your tying thread to the front of the fly. (line your last thread wrap covering the loop up with the eye of the hook).
Tie in a length of Medium AMBER Vinyl Ribbing, flat side down (be sure to leave about 1/4 inch behind the bead for the thorax.
Next, tie in some Mirrage tinsel. I do this by tying it in by the tip at the front, doing open wraps to the rear of the fly with the tinsel, then once again back to the front in even wraps to create a nice uniform underbody.
Wrap your V-rib body now forward, tying it off at the original tie in point (ensure the flat side stays down!)
Next, select a clump of white Senyo's Laser Dub and straighten out all the fibers and even them out in your fingers.
Cut your clump of nicely evenly spaced dubbing into 1/3 to 1/2 inch lengths and place them in the dubbing loop. Space them evenly (and sparsely), then using your dubbing hook/twister, create a dubbing rope.
Now, wrap the dubbing rope forward allowing it to sink into each of the segments of the vinyl ribbing and give it a brush out with your dubbing teaser to loosen any stray fibers.
Next (we're almost there..), select a nice long CDC feather. I really like the Petit Jean select CDC feathers for this... Cut about a 1 inch length of stem (from the middle of the feather) with long, even fibers and place itto the side.
Split your tying thread using a dress pin or dubbing hook.
Place the 1 inch length of CDC feather in the split thread, as well as some SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbing (Sparsely, and allowing the fibers to be distributed evenly beneath it.).
Trim the stem of the CDC feather leaving only the fibers (and dubbing beneath) in the split thread loop. Now pinch your thread beneath the dubbing in your left hand and give your bobbin a quick spin. Holding the thread horizontally/perpendicular to the hook bend will allow the bobbin to spin much nicer and the thread to twist much better. Pinch the tying thread just above the tip of your bobbin and slide your fingers up. This will push all the twists forward, locking everything in place nicely.
Now, stroke the CDC fibers back on the tying thread so they are all on the rear side of the tying thread (i.e. facing towards the bend of the hook) and begin wrapping your thorax up to the bead.
Tie off using a quick 3-4 turn whip finish, and give the thorax (and abdomen) a quick tease using a bodkin or soft dubbing teaser.